5 MIN READ
Travel Report: Taking the Harley-Davidson to the North Cape
Rik Wintein shares his experiences and tips about his journey through Scandinavia to the North Cape. He rode through Norway to the north of Europe and returned via Finland and Sweden.
Foreword
Many roads lead to Rome, far more than there are roads in Norway (and Northern Sweden). There are certainly some interesting roads and connections. I did not even have a fixed route. I only had “goals” and let the motorcycle GPS calculate the best – or only – route. And I can only speak about the North, not about the fjord and BMW GS paradise in the South.
Be prepared for variable weather conditions and temperatures
Think carefully about clothing. I started the journey with what I normally wear for shorter rides in spring weather within the Benelux. That was not a good idea. When it rained hard, my feet got wet, and when the rain continued in combination with cold weather, I got cold hands and feet.
The spring weather in Scandinavia is prone to changes and is unpredictable. Even during the summer, rain is common, in all sorts of shapes and sizes. I’ve experienced everything: It varied from drizzly rain and soft downpours to gigantic downpours and even melting snow. One moment you’re riding under a bright sun with a pleasant temperature, the next moment the heavens open up and if you’re lucky, it won’t be freezing cold.
There are also local conditions. An example: During my visit to the Lofoten, the south side of the islands was on average about 10 to 15 °C warmer than the north side. Due to the temperature difference, the moist polar air pushes itself through valleys and dales from north to south. This creates spectacular images where banks of fog ominously roll down the slopes. With the motorcycle, you ride from one moment to the next, from a hot into a cold zone. Not really comfortable. By wearing layers you can quickly react to these temperature differences.
Norwegian ice tunnels and nature
The Norwegian coastal roads have many tunnels, sometimes several kilometers long. No matter how warm it is, the tunnels remain ice-cold. It is recommended to be prepared for this before you enter them.
The nature in Norway (and Sweden) is stunningly beautiful and especially abundant. Literally, at times my windscreen was almost covered in flies. And due to the heavy rain, my black motorcycle – more than usual – was brown, with a dirty patina like a veil over the chrome work.
Recommendations before you ride to the North Cape
Based on the above weather conditions, I can recommend the following motorcycle gear to prospective North Cape travellers:
Goretex Motorcycle Clothing
For a next trip to the North, I will definitely purchase a REV’IT! Poseidon 3 GTX motorcycle jacket and matching Poseidon 3 GTX pants. This doesn’t mean that I won’t take along my rain jacket as an extra just to be sure. That thing saved my life during the melting snow on the mountain pass. To keep my legs alive, I wore a nylon legging under my motorcycle pants and over my thermal underwear. That was just efficient enough.
Waterproof winter or mid-season boots
I have cursed myself a thousand times because at the last minute (and against the advice of My Great Love) I opted for my army boots instead of my Dainese winter boots, solely because those army boots have more grip.
Boot Covers
From an experienced Norway enthusiast, I learned that in harsh Norwegian rain weather, the best waterproof boots stay dry for a maximum of 2 hours, as splashing and rising water enters the boots from the top. You can counter this with boot covers. Of course, you can also put your feet with socks on, into plastic bags and wriggle them into your shoes.
Thermal Underwear
Good thing I had that with me. Still, I kept riding around with both a fleece and a sweater under my motorcycle jacket. A thermal shirt and pants can save you a lot of cold.
Buff or Balaclava
A neck protector is not a luxury. I usually wore a regular buff, except in extreme weather. Then I also put on my winter balaclava, which protected me against the icy wind.
Extra motorcycle gloves
I (thankfully) carry several gloves, winter gloves and summer models, unfortunately neither of them are waterproof…
Useful extras
Besides clothing, the following items aren’t unnecessary luxuries.
- Visor cleaner: Not just for the helmet, but also for the windshield! It reads like a catalogue of Norwegian insects.
- Protection spray: For those who like to ride around on a shiny bike, even in Scandinavia: treat your bike beforehand so that there is a protective layer on the bodywork.
- Tension belts: Whoever says Norway (and Sweden) also says transfer boats. On those boats, you have to anchor your motor yourself with straps. The shipping companies provide some straps, but most of them are in questionable condition due to intense (and improper) use. So that is why I will bring my own tension straps on my next visit.
Doubts about ferries and toll roads?
No worries! In Norway, motorcycles don’t pay tolls on toll roads. Sweden has no toll roads, with the exception of the bridge between Sweden and Denmark. You can buy the latter ticket online in advance. This is possible because Scandinavia went big on license plate recognition.
The latter is also the case for tickets for the many crossings. For large ferries (more than 1 hour of travel), you can book online in advance, up to 12h before sailing. A large number of tickets (usually half) are available for reservation. The rest is to be arranged on the spot, preferably by card. If you can’t pay on the spot, they take a picture of your license plate and you get the bill (including administrative fees) in the mailbox later. For small transfers, it’s just: first come, first served
About Rik
Rik is a former employee at RAD where he is still missed by many a colleague. Did you enjoy reading about his travel experience to the North Cape? Then you are advised to visit Rik’s personal blog (in Dutch). Is your hunger still not satisfied? Then perhaps you can buy one of his books.
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Nathan is our webshop employee who is ready with advice and assistance to help customers. When he is not answering customer questions, he writes helpful texts and blogs for the RAD site.